London Fashion Week Men’s: Matthew Miller SS18
The Matthew Miller AW17collection gave us Project Fear, with clothes designed to protect the wearer in a post-truth era. For SS18 we got Degeneration - in the physical, mental and moral sense of the word - a reflection of the designer's anti-establishment views and politically-influenced approach to fashion that feels more poignant than ever.
Set in Holborn's St Sepulchre-without-Newgate church, the Matthew Miller SS18 collection was modern, rebellious twist on classic British style. There was the trench coat (a staple in any English gent's wardrobe), made in collaboration with Hancock and produced at the original Victorian mill in navy and beige, worn slightly open, fitted and collar turned up. Then there was there was the shirt - this time in dark shades, unbuttoned and worn open to show a military-inspired vest underneath. Or the tailored suit, innocent enough, given a twist with a red cross-body belt more reminiscent of guerilla uniform than its traditional connotations of business of evening wear.
As with the AW17 collection, scarves were the standout accessory, printed in Japanese silk by Design Lab Japan. This season though, they were covered in photographic prints of the human body, flowers and everyday objects by long time collaborator Jonathan Baron. Footwear - created in collaboration with Amsterdam label Filling Pieces - was a sleek affair, with clean white leather slip-ons designed to be worn with both sharp tailoring and relaxed silhouettes. True to Matthew Miller form though, they weren't completely pure and straightforward - each pair came with a hand-painted 'MM' graphic, dripping down the side of each shoe.
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