An Interview with Rupert Sanderson
At the turn of the century Rupert Sanderson’sfirst line of his eponymous shoe label was produced. They were shoes that women actually wanted to wear, with a focus on fit, length and shape – all designed for comfort to flatter the wearer. It worked and Sanderson became an almost overnight success, honing his craft over the last 15 years and becoming renowned for his timeless yet fashion-forward footwear (no one does a court shoe like Rupert). As we welcome Rupert Sanderson shoes on Coggles, we sat down with the British designer to talk about his career so far, his inspiration and what shoes we should be buying from his AW17 collection.
When designing I focus on line, volume and material. To me these are the most important aspects. The elements have to work together to create a well-balanced shoe that will always flatter the leg. I prefer to avoid overdressing the foot, and work to perfect the silhouette using the best quality materials that make shoes that last, which are graceful and that give power and confidence to the woman who wears them.
It was a straightforward decision at the time. I quit a career in advertising to learn the art of making shoes. I had always been fascinated with architecture and design. I think a lot of people hide a dream to do something creative. If I wasn’t a shoe designer I might have designed boats, but I was lucky enough to make the jump and create a business out of it.
When I first started out I made the decision to go to Italy for the summer and experience shoe-making at first hand. I was lucky enough to train under two renowned designers – Sergio Rossi and Bruno Magli. It was during this time that I really got to know the ins and outs of the Italian factories and build those valuable relationships that I still hold today.
Wherever I go I am inspired – it might be to a gallery, to a different country for the first time. The wonderful thing about shoes is that they can tell so many different stories, and I believe women will have a million moods.
Every shoe is dreamt up and designed in London and handmade in my factory in Italy. I develop more of a modern fashion story, but on the architecture of classicism. The Rupert Sanderson woman is a woman of substance, she understands quality. But she tends to be a woman who is buying for herself and she knows how fashion works and isn’t intimidated by it. She can buy with confidence, she can wear with confidence and she doesn’t need to be governed by trends.
Winning the British Fashion Council’s Accessory Designer of the Year Award, and shortly after the ELLE Style Award for best Accessory Designer. Opening stores in Hong Kong, Greater China and most recently Taiwan have been an adventure.
My CRITIC boot with its fierce silhouette and sharp monochromatic colour contrast. Also our star story, namely the STARFIRE sandal, a simple silhouette with shooting star accessory, inspired by the night and all things nocturnal.
