London Fashion Week: MM6 Maison Margiela AW18

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For AW18, MM6 Maison Margiela presented a futuristic, shimmering and almost entirely metallic collection noted for its signature oversized silhouettes and monochrome layering. Margiela is a house experienced in taking a space and making it its own, and this season the MM6 collection saw the Margiela team transform Mayfair’s oldest public house into a Warholian space by means of glossy mirrored silver foil. The stately grandeur of the building’s historic features juxtaposed the collection’s space-age futurism to create an intriguing contrast and suggest how the collection grapples with the future of fashion with one eye on its past heritage.

For a monochrome collection set against a matching monochrome backdrop, the MM6 Maison Margiela AW18 collection nevertheless showcased diversity in shape, shades and layering silhouettes. Highlights included oversized tailoring, puffer jackets, parka jackets with tinsel trims plus accessories and shoes with plenty of sequin detailing, but the collection as a whole was full of talking points. Take, for example, the ribbed military sweater with shoulder and elbow patches, or the two-piece sequin suit paired with sequin cowboy boots for a head-to-toe look.

Since Mr John Galliano took the reins as Creative Director at Margiela, the house has evidenced the designer’s outstanding couture and menswear but also a move towards more conceptually creative themes. This collection, although not designed by Galliano himself, was a case in point. Using inspiration from Andy Warhol’s factory and the Margiela archive, the AW18 collection was another indication of the steps towards conceptualism made by the brand under the creative direction of Galliano.

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